Showing posts with label sculpting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sculpting. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 22, 2015

Faceless Men: Banzai and Shenzi Completed Costumes

Banzai: "Hey did we order this dinner to go?”
Shenzi: “No, why?”
Banzai: “'Cause there is goes!"  
The Lion King





We did it!  We finally completed the hyenas, and with plenty of time to spare before DragonCon!  The costumes ended up being a hit, and we somehow managed to win Best in Show in the Hallway Costume Contest out of over 300 entries.  We were thrilled!  I honesty figured we'd have no chance when we saw the number of wonderful entries, so we were floored when they announced the results at the Masquerade!


Walking in the Parade... It was miserable... .9 miles of hell.
But all of the kids yelling "Mufasa!" and the general great
reception made it 100% worth it.
Here are links to all of the tutorials we made during the construction.

1. Hind Feet
2. Masks
3. Ears
4. Front Legs
5. Neck and mounting the head

There was no tutorial for the body since we just got gray onesies, painted them, and added a tail.

It's been quite a process, but we met a lot of wonderful people at DragonCon who gave us great advice for future projects, and we are chomping at the bit for the Smooth-On projects to arrive in the mail so we can start next year's project...

If you want to stay up-to date on next years project follow us on facebook at Phenix Cosplay,

Just a hint, but the costumes next year will have to do with Fallout.

Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Bran Stark: Hyena Front Leg Tutorial

Look at you guys! No wonder we're dangling at the bottom of the food chain! 
Shenzi, The Lion King


The front legs ended up being far easier than Stoney and I had anticipated.  To make one set of legs, all it required was a set of aluminum crutches, an angle grinder (to cut the crutches), two 4" PVC couplings, a wire clothes hanger, foam (the same foam used for the hind feet), black fabric, duct tape, a drill, and 4 pennies.


Freshly cut crutches
Penny over the cut edge for safety
Fully duct-taped crutch ends
The arm cuff, secured by duct tape
Top view of the taped-in cuff
They work!
For the next step, we cut out the paws out of foam (same as with the back feet, but we didn't have to worry about gluing the foam onto shoes), and carved them to look more like paws and less like big blocks of foam.  Because the paws will be going onto crutches, you also have to cut a hole in them, which will allow the crutch pole to go through.  We carved the hole wider on the bottom to allow the foam foot to move with the crutch as we walked.  We also spray-painted the bottoms black just so they would blend in if we started waving our paws around.



At this point, you will need to get out the power tools.  To attach the paws, we drilled a hole towards the bottom of each crutch (the foot of the crutch pulls all the way out, and that is the pole you drill into). 

The goal was to get the paw to sit around the foot of the crutch without spinning around and getting out of place.  This is where the hole comes into play.  You drill straight through the side of the pole, and then, using a thin metal rod (we used a cut up coat hanger, since we had already used part of it for the ears), you push the metal through one side of the foam foot, through the hole in the crutch, and then out the other side of the foot.  Like so:
Coat hanger poking through to other side of foot

The end result: foot held onto crutch
Once the metal has gone through, use hot glue on both ends to create a cap, which will prevent the metal from piercing the fabric and/or coming loose entirely.

When furring the feet, we did all of the toes first, then put the foot on the pole, and then finished furring.

The final step to creating your front legs is furring the rest of the crutch.  To do this, we essentially just created a fur sleeve, and then glued the fabric at the top and bottom to stabilize it.  Cut out a piece of fabric that can wrap around the length of the crutch (give yourself about an inch of extra fabric on the sides, and some extra on the top).  Sew down the length of the fabric to create your sleeve (we did the stitching on the inside to hide the stitches, but at this point you can do whatever you are comfortable with).  Before putting the fabric onto the crutch, you are going to want to make a cap for the metal screw that keeps the crutch's hand grip in place.  We just used a piece of foam that we cut a slit into and glued down:

Now just slide the sleeve up from the bottom to the cuff, and use hot glue to paste the fabric onto the inside of the arm cuff.  This acts as padding for the cuff while also keeping the fabric in place.

Slip the foot of the crutch, which now has the furred foot attached, back onto the crutch.  Use hot glue to attach the bottom of the fur sleeve to the foot.  At this point, you have a fully finished front leg!

Monday, April 20, 2015

The Lion & The Rose: Lion King Hyena Masks



Mufasa! Mufasa! Mufasa! 
The Lion King

For the most part, this mask-making process was one great big experiment. Luckily, it worked out!  Our initial idea involved sculpting the masks out of clay, covering the clay in vaseline, doing plaster of paris over the clay, and then somehow just pulling the dried plaster off while retaining the shape.  Yeah, that didn't work.  After failing miserably at our plaster attempt after sculpting the Banzai mask, we regrouped and started looking into other options.  Ultimately, we settled on Worbla, which comes in sheets and becomes mold-able when heated. 


The biggest concern after we got the worbla was how we were going to heat it and press it into the correct form without melting the clay.  Obviously, the easiest solution to this problem is to get clay that doesn't melt, but we had already sculpted the whole thing out of clay which, as it turned out, did melt.  Based on the fact that we had more problems with applying the worbla to the Shenzi mask, I would say that if for some reason you decide you want a challenge and go for clay that will melt, coating the clay in vaseline first helps tremendously (and this vaseline layer has other uses too, so we recommend using it no matter the clay you use). 


Putting the worbla on the Banzai form

To apply the worbla, you just need a heat gun.  We folded the worbla in half and heated it all up before getting to the application because one side of the sheet had an adhesive, and by "gluing" the two sides together, we ended up with a sturdier end-product.  If you were just putting the worbla onto a foam base (for armor or something like that), you wouldn't need to go through that extra step.  Once the two sides were put together, we just heated it up and molded it onto the clay as best we could.  Application of the worbla ended up being a bit tricky, just due to the weirdly-shaped mask, but other than a few seams and a few misplaced wrinkles, we were really pleased with the end result.

Worbla applied to Banzai form
Once the worbla was molded onto the clay, we used a spray primer to coat the whole thing.  We were hoping that this would help cover up the seams, but as it turned out we needed some additional work to mask those. 
Primered Banzai mask
Once the mask was sprayed with primer and dry, we got to work digging the clay out.  Once again, we learned that a vaseline layer over he clay was helpful here.  The clay came out of the Banzai mask much more easily than it came out of the Shenzi mask.  Once we had the Banzai mask all molded and spray-primered, we got to work on the Shenzi mask.  The process was basically the same, although we had quite a bit more trouble with melting, and ended up basically losing the entire sculpt on the left eye.  To fix it, we ended up with applying worbla on top in the shape we had originally sculpted.  I wasn't 100% thrilled with the result, but it ended up working out and looking fine once all of the paint was applied.

Side view of Shenzi sculpt

Shenzi sculpt


Worbla on Shenzi, Banzai covered in primer
Primer applied to Shenzi
Once we got both of the masks coated in primer and realized that the seams were still pretty visible, we purchased a jar of modeling paste, which let us fill in the seams and then sand the dried paste down to create a smooth form.
To help us cover, up the seams
Seams covered in Liquitex

Seams covered in Liquitex

Sanded Liquitex

Sanded Liquitex

There were, admittedly, still some errant wrinkles on the lips after the molding paste was applied, but we were sufficiently happy (and not sure how fixable they were) and decided to move forward with the paint job.  For painting, we used createx airbrush paints, and mixed together black and white to create our desired shade of gray.  We settled on the createx because it also works on fabric, and we wanted to be able to color-match our body-suits to our masks.  We opted to go a hair lighter than the hyenas were in the movie, just because we figured the features and other paint would stand out more in person if we weren't a super dark gray. 

Airbrushing Banzai
Masks drying after getting their first coat of gray
Faces being painted
Once we got the masks painted, we added on the final touches of teeth and hair.  For the teeth, we just used foam strips, which we hot glued into the mouths and then carved to look like teeth.  Once the carving was done, we added white paint to the foam to make the teeth pop.  For the hair, we used roving wool, which I simply rolled and then hot glued to the masks.  For Shenzi, we just needed the forelock.  Banzai needed a tuft on top of the head and some bushy eyebrows.

Finished Shenzi Mask!

Banzai nearly finished, just needs his eyebrows in this one

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Finished Banzai mask!